Waitrose Good Food Guide 2014
Cooking Score 5
Ambitious modern cooking in leafy commuter-land.
'All the food was absolutely fabulous, terrific tastes', is one enthusiastic verdict on the cooking at this impressively restored Tudor farmhouse on the outskirts of Chobham village. Inside, the old beams and timbers have been fashionably updated with a neutral colour scheme. It's unusual for a husband-and-wife team to both be in the kitchen, but Kristy and Fernando Stovell certainly know their stuff and the results are classy. A 'rich and full of flavour' leg of pata negra ham, displayed in the dining room, shows serious intent from the off (served as a special, hand-carved at the table). Caramelised hand-dived Loch Leven scallops might appear with chorizo, ratte potatoes and walnut dressing. Worth trying, too, is the trio of Hampshire rabbit (loin, leg and saddle) imaginatively teamed with pickled turnips, pistachio, yarrow and parsley purée.Alternatively, plump for the Cornish sea trout, partnered by grilled cucumber, ramsons (wild garlic), brown shrimps, yuzu and cashews, and don't miss the warm chocolate fondant finish. Service is ‘knowledgeable and positively sunny natured’, and the first-rate wine list (from £17.50) shows equal attention to detail.